New Mill Valley Restaurant Inspired by Japanese, Peruvian Flavors

El Paseo’s collection of intimate, brick-walled rooms, connected by a winding passageway between Throckmorton and Sunnyside avenues in Mill Valley, has been home to a succession of restaurants since the 1940s.

The latest is Lima Nikkei from Novato resident Edwin Sandoval, and it brings Nikkei, a fusion of Japanese and Peruvian cuisines, to Marin following the closure of 5-year-old Paseo Bistro late last year.

Originally from Lima, Peru, Sandoval worked in his family’s restaurants in the 1970s. After moving to Novato in 1982, he stayed in the industry before shifting to a career in construction, where he’s remained for 35 years.

He says his return to the restaurant business is about creating an opportunity for his grandchildren. Grandson Lukas Sandoval, a business student at the College of Marin, manages the restaurant, while granddaughter Claudia Sandoval handles the bookkeeping and marketing.

Sandoval created the menu and hired fellow Lima native Wilmer Anaya, whose resume includes San Francisco’s La Mar Cebichería Peruana, to lead the kitchen.

The shareable menu highlights a culinary tradition that emerged after Japanese immigrants began settling in Peru more than a century ago.

Yellowfin tuna, marinated in citrus-based ají amarillo leche de tigre made with Peru’s yellow chile pepper, is one of six ceviches. It gets a Japanese twist with wasabi and shredded nori. Another pairs octopus with a black olive emulsion and chimichurri.

The four maki rolls include one with shrimp tempura, avocado and cucumber wrapped in fresh fish with cebichera sauce, and a yellowtail version with cilantro, jalapeño and yuzu mayo.

A section of bites and small plates features bao de chicharrón, a steamed bun filled with crispy pork belly, house pickles and rocoto gochumayo; a Hokkaido scallop with aged Parmesan foam and garlic breadcrumbs served in the shell; and roasted cauliflower with edamame hummus, anticuchera sauce and huacatay, a Peruvian herb.

Larger plates include lomo saltado, a traditional Peruvian stir-fry with Chinese influences, made with beef tenderloin, onions, tomatoes and soy sauce.

Udon noodles come with salmon, shrimp, edamame and Peruvian chile curry in coconut milk. Beyond the fusion dishes are Australian wagyu New York strip steak and center-cut filet mignon with yuca fries.

Like Peru’s anticuchos, robata skewers of chicken, beef tenderloin, wild salmon, Spanish octopus and mushrooms are brought to the table on miniature Japanese grills.

The restaurant’s seafood is sourced from Four Star Seafood & Provisions in San Francisco, and the meats from Chicago-based Allen Brothers.

Bartender Lee Bustamante worked with Sandoval to develop the cocktail menu.

The Paseo Sour mixes pisco, matcha, shochu, yuzu and black sesame syrup; the Miso Elixir blends pisco, shochu and sake with miso bonito cordial and is served with a sweet potato anticucho; and the Amazonian Geisha flavors Haku vodka with camu camu, a tart fruit from Peru’s rainforest, and ume plum liqueur.

Sandoval, who owns Atlas Construction, oversaw renovations to the historic space, which seats about 125 guests. Brick that was whitewashed by a previous owner has been sandblasted to reveal its original color, dark-stained wood floors were refinished to a lighter shade and 56 light fixtures were replaced.

Exposed brick in the main dining room contrasts with pale wood furnishings and curved upholstered banquettes.

The back room retains the building’s original character, with colored glass windows and exposed rafters, and vertical wood slats give the bar a distinctly Japanese look.

Lima Nikkei is open from 4 to 9 p.m. Sundays through Thursdays and 4 to 10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays at 17 Throckmorton Ave. in Mill Valley. Find more at limanikkei.com.

Leanne Battelle is a freelance food writer and restaurant columnist. Email her at ij.lbattelle@gmail.com or follow The Real Deal Marin at therealdealmarin.com for more on local food news.